EnchBySew-53: Spring Shirring (MOB)

Click on this link in iTunes   to download the 53'rd, and other, episodes of the Enchanted by Sewing Audio Podcast

Or listen directly on the web by clicking on http://traffic.libsyn.com/enchantedbysewing/castFINALSpringShirring.mp3


This podcast is an extension of my regular sewing blog - http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com

~ ~ ~

In this show I'm continue to share with you, some of my experiences working on my Mother-Of-The-Bride ensemble.

All 3 garment pieces involve  pattern creation or alteration.

Snapshot of This Month’s Show 

1) Pensamientos Primeros/First Thougths 

Shirring? Are we talking sheep? Thoughts on scissors,  shears, and the sewing technique known as ‘shirring’.

To shirr is to gather a piece of fabric, or garment piece,, using drawn or elastic thread in close rows.
 

The knife center.com ….The Difference Between Scissors & Shears www.knifecenter.com/shop/scissors

2) Entonces inspiración para fruncir/Inspiration for Shirring  

Museum portrait and wardrobe shopping

Fruncir means “ to gather”. If you’re practicing your Spanish you might also use the word ‘fruncir’ in reference to frowning or knitting your brows, or puckering up your lips! 

http://www.spanishcentral.com/translate/fruncir

3) Y finalmente, Technicos /And finally 

Techniques that I’ve used for shirring

Give Fabric Elasticity with These Shirring Tips for Beginners - Craftsy

https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/11/shirring-tips/

1 Cached

Nov 12, 2014 - Shirring is a magical technique for sewing texture that takes a regular piece of fabric and shrinks it up, giving it elasticity. It's great for skirt waists, shirt hems and even entire bodices! But shirring for the first time is no walk in the park.

n

m

Shirring Fabric - Sewing Tutorial - YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZtOqqyRZU8

Note: Within the Inspiration Section, and at the end of the ‘cast,  I included travel notes for places I like to visit in San Francisco Golden Gate Park for fellow sewists who may be visiting, or to prompt other local sewists to share their own thoughts on this locale.

EnchBySew-48:Garment Copycatting

Click on this link in iTunes   to download the 48'th episode of the Enchanted by Sewing Audio Podcast,  produced in October of 2016. Or listen directly on the web by clicking on this link.

This Month’s Show 

Technicos: I'm learning to copycat a favorite knit top, without cutting the garment apart. 

Blog Posts from this Project
Part 1: Getting Started http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2016/10/copycat-pattern-work-sleeveless-tee.html

Part 2: Continuing up through Basted Garment http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2016/10/copycat-pattern-test-garment-basted.html

~ ~ ~ Other Resources

I have a number of Sewing Pinterest Boards: https://www.pinterest.com/lrshimer/

Errata

I meant to refer to Lynda Maynard, not Lynda Myers!

Ench By Sew-46: Ready Set Sew! - Sewing Style

Click on this link in iTunes  to download the 46'th episode of the Enchanted by Sewing Audio Podcast,  recorded in August of 2016. Or listen directly on the web by clicking on this link.

Ready Set Sew! Sewing my own garments, allows me to define and create my own style.

This Month’s Show 

1) Primeros Pensamientos/First Thoughts
* Defining this sewist’s current style 

* Elements of Style- According to Laurel
-Color
-Design Lines and Fit, 
-Fabric and Drape
-Lifestyle

In reference to wearing fur -We go with what the always charming Felix Bassenak (S.Z. Sakall) said to Elizabeth Lane (aka Barbara Stanwick) in Christmas in Conneticut…

"You need it? Nobody needs a mink coat but a mink!"
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0037595/quotes

2) Entonces/Then
Technicos: Techniques I used for altering M6403, the pattern I used for my black linen summer pants

In Pensamientos Finales, I recall
the importance of
sewing this maxi jumpsuit

3)) Pensamientos Finales/Final Thoughts
Looking back- Sewing myself as a grownup



….

Web and Pattern Resources: http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2016/08/floribunda-bouquet-another-sleeveless.html

M6403 pants pattern - out of print but many copies available on the web
M6076 Palmer and Pletsch princess-seamed shirt

Sleeves are Troublesome: Discussion with Susan

Dear Susan,

Here's that princess-seamed shirt muslin (M6076) we talked about. I'm noticing....

* Two sets of diagonal wrinkles across bodice

* Bicep stretches across tight -  but I know for sure sleeve cap should be 3/4 inch longer than curve of armscye. It's not now.

*  I cut back the armhole on this side , so I lost the extra in the sleeve cap 

*  I think the  front pull up means I dropped under arm too much?
* Is the tight bicep maybe because I'm missing 3/4" ease, or because armscye is too low ?

* Hmmm why does back stretch across now? Torso fit fine in the sleeveless version and in this muslin before I added sleeve

Summer Essentials: Basic Shorts

Nothing beats a new pair of basic summer shorts. Usually I make this pattern with the traditional front hip pockets, but this time it was a tradeoff - I just needed to get them done more quickly. Besides, I just about always carry a mobile pocket bag, so as nice as in-garment-pockets are I can make do without them.

Fitting in the Sleeve Sloper (Pattern Work)

First I made my moulage.

Then I made my sloper.

They looked a lot alike, so I only blogged about my moulage. Here are the most recent details I wrote about that Lynda Maynard class in this posting.

(http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2015/02/french-pattern-draftingmoulage-first.html)

We've been working on getting a sleeve to fit into our slopers for two classes now. And I'm continuing to work at that fit and pattern drafting task at home. 

This is not the most attractive garment I've ever sewn!
It's a sloper, which is the equivalent of my moulage plus wearing ease.
Yes, I know I've got too much ease in my sleeve at this point
After I made more change at home, and before I went back to creating
a new version of the pattern, I did the math -
The total distance around the sleeve stitching line for the
armscye/sleeve cap, should be 3/4 of an inch
larger than the distance for the front and back arm holes.

Can you see the work that went into my first shot at drafting a sleeve pattern?
I also write small to do lists on the pattern piece and use a lot of color coding and
 dating to remind myself of what I did in class versus at home, etc.
This is the follow on to the drafting block by the way.
I re-scooped the front, flattening it and giving it less curve, added to the height at
the top center to get the bicep balance line to come out parallel to the floor,
and also added 3/8 of an inch to both the long underarm seam lines.

After making all those changes, I definitely needed a new version of my pattern!
After I made this, I traced out a new sleeve to cut out and sew to try on the other side
of my muslin sloper.

Still To Do 

before class

Next - I'll be stay stitching my second muslin sleeve, cutting it out, basting the balance lines, completing the underarm seam line, and basting in the ease lines.

Then I need to go back to my sloper and alter my side seams to be 5/8 of an inch farther into the seam allowance. I have 1 plus inch seam allowances.

Must remember to note that change on my sloper pattern! Good thing I haven't cut out my most recent version of that pattern, so I can draw that in and use my eraser and still have a clean final working copy.

Entonces I 'll attach the sleeve to the other side of my sloper, making sure my front is attached to the front part of my sloper fit garment, of course!

At that point I'll check all the balance lines in the mirror and see if I need to alter any thing else obvious before I return to class next week. I included a slightly over 1" seam allowance when I drew the pattern markings on, so I can make some alterations.

I create a new version of all my patterns every week after class. That way I have a record of where I've been and what I've done. I can go back to a previous version too. Also it's just less confusing and it motivates me to write more notes on my patterns.

I also include my name, date, phone number and email (I've smudged those out in these photo)

on every single pattern piece and muslin garment. 

In sewing lab, everybody's stuff looks the same and it's a lot of work down the drain 

if I misplace anything.

~ ~ ~

It's not exciting or glamorous working on creating a perfect-fit-me garment, but it sure leads to a lot of daydreaming about what I'll work on once I have the patterns that result from this process.

And that's the kind of thing that keeps me ....

Enchanted by Sewing!

   ]

Episode 003: The Lady Wears Trousers - Show Notes

The Podcast Episode 003: The Lady Wears Trousers, has been published in the iTunes Store :-)

o To find and download this free podcast show - search the iTunes store using the phrase Enchanted by Sewing OR follow this link
• You can also LISTEN TO THE SHOW Via the Web by clicking right here, if you prefer not to download it to a mobile device

Look for this widget that
looks like this picture, to get on
the Feedburner no-spam
mailing list

• Signup to be notified about new shows  using the no-spam Feedburner link on the right side of this page 

   

• This show is an extension of my regular sewing blog - Me Encanta Coser - which roughly translated means Enchanted By Sewing. My blog is written in English. The name celebrates the historical and modern use of the beautiful Spanish Language in the San Francisco Bay Area of California, where I live.

Please let me know, by posting below, if you find any links I mentioned in the show,  missing from this posting. I find getting all the links in challenging!

November Show Links for Episode 003: The Lady Wears Trousers

• Reflections on trouser-wearing ladies in past, recent and modern times including Marie Antoinette, Katherine Hepburn and Doris Day, as well as Laurel's own memories of changing cultural attitudes over what constitutes ladylike attire.

• Discussion of trouser patterns used by the hostess, ideas for sewing fabric and thread belt loops, and specialized techniques for creating in-seam pockets.

• Includes a lively interview-conversation with Sally-Ann, another student in the Cañada Fashion Sewing Program.

Patterns (Golly, they are all McCalls this month.)

My favorite elastic waist
pants pattern is out of print
But many web resellers carry it
I make my full-length courderoy
version by cutting it longer

o  McCalls 2791 is my Tried and True (TNT)/ Old Favorite Pants Pattern. It's no longer in print but many resellers carry it on the web

o  The Trouser and Shorts Patterns with fly-front zipper and front tucks (also a version with no tucks) I really like, is  McCalls 6403 The original pattern has two tucks, but I sew them with one larger tuck instead.

o  McCalls 2260 is a great classic Vest pattern

Technicos/Techniques

* My Elastic Waist Pants Checklist 

* The Inseam Pockets Checklist has  photos that show stayed and leashed pockets

* Fabric Belt Loops: The Mystery of the Double Needle 

* Thread Belt Loops: Suzanne Beaubien from MyBeauBaby shows you how to make thread belt loops. I love making these now! Just made another set last night, after finishing off the podcast :-)

I take sewing classes in the Cañada College Fashion Department, Redwood City, California